What’s At 62? is billed as a ‘soul shack’ paying homage to Deep South style cooking. Set up as a restaurant and function space for the adjacent 62 Castle Street Hotel, it is run by Albert Dock’s What’s Cooking? and expectations were high when we arrived on a Friday evening.
Entering the grand old building on the corner of Castle Street, we were directed to seating in a raised area with large windows that offered superb views of the Victoria Monument. However, the small booths, candle-lit tables and wood-finished décor ensure it feels like an intimate venue in the evenings.
The surfaces are polished and the staff impeccably dressed in traditional cotton shirts and bow ties for the men. It is attention to detail that is carried over to the food, and one look at the menu is enough to confirm What’s At 62? is not going to be a regular chicken and wedges southern diner. From a raw bar featuring rock oysters, to a Po-Boys and burger selection of BBQ pulled pork and other high-end meats, the menu features something for everybody. Whether it is a Nova Scotia Canadian hard shell lobster, Hereford chargrilled beef or a side of truffle fries, What’s At 62? leaves you spoilt for choice.
Eventually, I chose the spicy sweetcorn fritters with mango salsa (£5) to start. The thin discs were packed with flavour and the mango dip soothed some of the spiciness and added a fruity twist. My companion was delighted with the New England crab (£8), a generous portion spread across charred toast that tasted as fresh as any he had had before.
Choosing a fish course, I decided to get in the US spirit by choosing the fish and chips with chipotle beans and sweet potato fries (£14) as opposed to the traditional mushy pea and home cut chips of the UK option. Served on something akin to an upmarket chopping board, the fish was incredibly fresh and free from the gristle that too often accompanies low quality fish. Topped with lemon, it melted in the mouth.
My companion went for the Piggie Smalls, a BBQ pulled pork burger with bacon, applewood cheese and avocado (£12). So spectacular was this behemoth burger there was no thin wooden stick holding it together – the Piggie Smalls came with a knife through the centre to keep it in check. After wrestling with it for a few minutes my companion declared it to be succulent and smoky, before lapsing into a satisfied silence as he tackled the burger.
Both of the meals were washed down with choices from the small beer menu, with the ‘Inverted Jenny’ (£4) a particular favourite. There is also an extensive wine list and cocktails for non-ale fans.
What’s At 62? has a location that will entice the business crowd at lunch and the beautiful building and attractive fit-out will bring evening diners. However, the quality of the food and thought that has gone into the composition of the dishes will keep people coming back at all times of the day and night.
