Bretta & Co

Heathfield St, L1

I’m always keen to try out a hidden gem of the city’s dining scene, and the emphasis is on hidden when it comes to Bretta & Co, a restaurant and deli tucked away just off Bold Street. Barely visible from the street, its interior is bright, light and comfortable; a nice little oasis set a short distance from the usual dining destinations in the independent-packed area of Liverpool.

It’s fair to say Bretta is a gem as well; it takes you out of your comfort zone but never delivers anything so outlandish that you will be put off. The food is all about taking a new look at something you may have taken for granted. For example, it’s very rare that you will have a poor carrot soup, such is the simplicity of the dish. At Bretta & Co the carrot soup (£6) is freshly made and tasty, but it also comes with a dose of ginger that gives it a lovely spicy kick. The charred bread served alongside is another nice detail.

It was a similar story with my starter, grilled halloumi with asparagus (£6.50). The halloumi was beautifully cooked, salty and delivering its signature ‘squeak’. However, the dish was raised above the norm with the addition of Bretta’s vegan-friendly chutney, which adds a rich flavour to the dish.

For the mains, my dining partner chose the chicken breast (£12), which came in a risotto that was light and packed full of flavour. Instead of a traditional battered slab of fish, I went for the roast sea bass, which was the catch of the day. While a fish, head and all, can be off-putting for some, I loved the sense of adventure that comes from tucking in and the buttery fish was wonderfully fresh. The dish came with a generous portion of sweet potato fries and plenty of garnish and was a perfectly proportioned meal.

Despite the large starters and filling mains, we chose another daily special for dessert – the chocolate chip cheesecake (£4.25) served with biscuit bits. Even the drink options had a twist; with traditional beer making way for rarer Spanish and German options and a wine list that isn’t quite summed up by the word ‘extensive’.

As you would expect, the attached deli is a treasure trove of experimental ingredients and luxury options. A wall of olive oil that you can pour yourself is a nice touch, while delicious spreads from continental Europe, black garlic, fresh meats and cheese all vie for attention.

Bretta & Co is a clever place. The attention to detail in the smart-looking interior is replicated in the food and drink it serves. It is not the most visible restaurant in town and to be a success it must deliver something that is different from the rest. By offering exciting, fresh and innovative takes on its dishes it excels as a lunchtime treat or an evening destination.

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