Restaurant Review

Ninello’s

15 Duke Street, L1 5AP

By Will Carr | Italian | ££ |

In a city drowning in Italian restaurants, like meatballs lost in too much ragù, it’s easy to go unnoticed. Ninello’s, a modest, family-run eatery on Duke Street, might not catch your eye at first glance, but it harbours more than a few surprises. The first greets you as you enter. Aurelio, the very picture of Italian charm, escorts you to your seat. Quite possibly the most enthusiastic waiter I’ve ever encountered, he took our order with such effortless charisma that, once he’d gone, I was left feeling hopelessly dowdy and unmistakably British by comparison.

To start, I ordered the Polpette Nonna Gianna (£9.75) – three Sicilian veal meatballs that were tender to the point of collapse and startlingly delicious. Served on a bed of rich tomato sauce, they tasted as though they’d been shipped straight from a Sicilian grandmother’s kitchen. My partner went for the Arancini Ragù – Messinesi (£6.95), a delightful trio of golden-fried balls stuffed with fragrant rice, beef ragù, and tomato sauce, all bound in a crisp breadcrumb coating. As we bit into them, savouring the crunch, it struck us that this was essentially the Italian take on a Scotch egg –only much, much better.

For her main, my partner chose the Spaghetti alla Bolognese (£15.95) – as classic as it gets. Knowing that an Italian restaurant lives or dies by its pasta, this was the moment Ninello’s would either sink or swim. It didn’t just swim – it cruised. The dish was on an entirely different level. The flavour was exceptional, and I can say with confidence – having dined at countless Italian spots across the city – that no other pasta has come close.

My expectations couldn’t have been higher, so for my main, I decided to try a little experiment. Of course the pasta was going to be good, but I wanted to see how Ninello’s handled something a little more ambitious: the Ribeye steak (£28.95). Would lightning strike twice? Sadly, not quite. Served with a bowl of fries and a side of peppercorn sauce, the dish felt – after the earlier triumph – decidedly uninspired. The steak arrived a touch north of medium, despite my request for medium rare, but the bigger issue was the seasoning – or rather, the lack of it.

The texture wasn’t bad, but with each bite I found myself groaning at the lack of bold flavour – especially when compared to my partner’s marvellous pasta. Where was the garlic? The oregano? The thyme? Even the peppercorn sauce, though creamy, lacked any real peppery punch.

Onto dessert, and I could practically hear the Tiramisù (£7.95) calling my name. I was amazed when it arrived – the ‘Tower-Misu’, as I dubbed it, resembled a coffee-themed Jenga tower: creamy, smooth, and unapologetically indulgent. I could feel my arteries clogging – but thanks to the generous dusting of espresso, I was confident I could run to the hospital if necessary.

The Bianco e Nero (£7.95) followed. These fried, cream-filled dough balls were drenched in decadent chocolate mousse and left my partner both satisfied and chairbound.

Next time you’re in the mood for an Italian, do yourself a favour and pay Aurelio a visit. Not every dish is a firework – but Ninello’s still knows how to bring the heat.

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