‘Try’ January
Jon Atkinson invites you to explore some unfamiliar options with his latest selections
LIKE A LOT OF PEOPLE, I suspect, I’m wondering just where 2023 went? However, 2024 is definitely here and it’s January – in my humble opinion a godforsaken month, that some people opt to make even more cheerless by giving up drinking alcohol for its duration!
Each to their own etc. but those of us in the trade could be forgiven for being slightly paranoid; ‘Dry January’, ‘Stoptober’… has somebody out there got it in for us? How about ditching caffeine for a month instead? Thought not… So, how about a little moderation instead? Drink less, but better and take the opportunity to explore the incredibly diverse world of wine a little more deeply by trying the odd bottle from outside of your comfort zone.
In truth, nobody knows for sure how many different grape varieties exist. Estimates vary but there are thought to be in excess of 8,000, all of which could, in theory, be used to make wine in any combination! In practice, there are maybe 200 that are commercially ‘significant’ but even that figure gives us plenty to go at.
Of course, the choice of grape variety(ies) is just one factor that determines what a wine tastes like. There is also (sub) soil, climate, viticulture and vinification, quite aside from the luck of the draw (vintage), but the grape variety is probably the easiest to understand and most convenient to ‘label’ so for the purposes of this month’s recommendations, this will be our main criterion.
Lugana Cantina del Garda 2022
Turbiana is the grape in question here; a close relative of Verdicchio which grows predominantly on the Adriatic coast, and until as recently as 2021, they were thought to be one and the same. This example also benefits from the proximity of a large body of water, namely Lake Garda with the Lugana vineyards (pictured) being situated literally along the southern shore.
The DOC was granted in 1967 and is unusual in so far as it traverses two regions; it is mostly within Lombardy but some 300ha fall under the jurisdiction of Veneto. This lovely example from the Cantina del Garda Cooperative has an attractively fruity nose with peach and lemon sherbet aromas with a hint of lilac. It is dry with a pleasant tang of acidity but quite rich in texture with a vibrant tangerine and apricot fruit with just a hint of spiciness on the finish. £12.95
Valduero Ribera del Duero Blanco de Albillo 2020
Prior to the 2019 vintage, white Ribera del Duero didn’t exist! White wines were produced, but were not recognised/approved by the DO, so had to be de-classified to Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León. There are a few producers who always believed in and championed the native Albillo Mayor variety, and their perseverance was finally rewarded when the Consejo Regulador approved Ribera del Duero Blanco on the proviso that it was made from a minimum of 75% Albillo Mayor.
Our heroine here is Yolanda Garcia-Viadero, founder and winemaker at Bodegas Valduero since 1984 and the only woman sitting on the regulatory council (Consejo Regulador) who has always been a fierce advocate for this variety. Her wine offers a rich nose with candied peach and toasted pineapple with a hint of lemon zest. Richly textured with a tangy acidity providing a foil to the citrus, stonefruit and green apple fruit. £23.95
La Forge Estate IGP Pays d’Oc Carignan 2022
Carignan is widely planted in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of south-western France where historically it was exclusively a variety to be blended with others. These days, it has become better understood that the key to ‘taming’ this prolific variety is to use the fruit of old vines which is less vigorous with better concentration.
La Forge Estate is part of the Domaines Paul Mas ‘Empire’ with its focus on producing a diverse range of varieties grown in the Languedoc but offering ‘New World attitude’. The Carignan is one of my favourites in their range – a rich, full-bodied red with dark fruit character coupled with tobacco and herbs with a hint of oak. £12.25
Viña Las Perdices ‘Ala Colorada’ Mendoza Ancellotta 2017
Las Perdices was founded in the highly regarded Agrelo region of Mendoza by brothers Juan Carlos and Nicolás Muñoz in 2004. Las Perdices (the Partridges) is so called because the land where their winery is situated is swarming with them! As for Ancellotta, I must confess that it was a new one to me at first! It originates from Emilia Romagna in Central Italy where it is one of the varieties used to make traditional, dry, red Lambrusco.
As is often the case, it appears to have made itself quite at home in South America. Aged for 15 months in a 50/50 split of new French and American oak barriques, this deep, blueish purple, brooding, inky red has aromas of summer fruit, figs, tobacco and dark chocolate. For me, this is everything that you would hope to get from a top Malbec, but all too often don’t! £17.50
-
- La Forge Estate IGP Pays d’Oc Carignan 2022
-
- Lugana Cantina del Garda 2022
-
- Viña Las Perdices ‘Ala Colorada’ Mendoza Ancellotta 2017
-
- Valduero Ribera del Duero Blanco de Albillo 2020
