Feliz Rioja!

Jon Atkinson shares his favourites from Spain’s finest wine-producing region

FELIZ RIOJA IS A MONTH-LONG CELEBRATION of all things Rioja in November. Organised by Rioja Wine UK, it aims to increase awareness and raise the profile of Spain’s pre-eminent wine-growing region, particularly looking ahead to the festive season which is arriving somewhat soon!

As with most participating wine merchants, WineTime Liverpool will be offering in-store tastings on Friday and Saturday throughout November, as well as some tasty price reductions and free, Rioja branded ‘schwag’ (Google has just informed me that this has an alternative meaning, so perhaps I should run with ‘merch’ instead?)

So, a little about Rioja; firstly, it’s a region as opposed to a brand – located in northern Spain, some 100 km south of Bilbao. From a wine perspective, it is divided into three distinct zones: Alta, Alavesa and Oriental (formerly known as Baja), with Alavesa falling within the Basque territory and being about half the size of the other two. Historically it was Alavesa and particularly the Alta that were regarded as yielding the best quality wine. Rioja Baja used to be viewed as being inferior to the other two regions with Baja translating as ‘low’, when this was in fact referencing its lower altitude as opposed to quality.

The Rioja region covers approximately 100 km, encompassing more than 66,000 hectares and 571 wineries. Although it is synonymous with red wine, Rioja also produces white, rosé, dessert and sparkling (Cava) wines. That being said, red varieties, particularly Tempranillo, do account for the vast majority of what is produced, although white Rioja is increasingly en vogue.

Rioja, indeed, the majority of established Spanish wine-growing regions have a hierarchy for ageing their wines, although an increasing number of Bodegas have been stepping away from this system for at least some of their production. However, the majority are continuing to release Crianza (minimum of two years with at least one of those in wood), Reserva (minimum of three years with at least one of those in wood) and Gran Reserva (minimum of five years with at least two in wood). These minimum periods are less for the production of Rioja Blanco.

Here’s my recommended wines from Rioja…

Monte Real Rioja Blanco fermentado en Barrica 2021

Monte Real is the flagship of Bodegas Riojanas – a venerable old Bodega established in 1890 in the town of Cenicero. Owned by the founding Artacho family, it is very much a specialist in Reservas and Gran Reservas with 45,000 oak barrels maturing in their cellars at any given time!

This delicious white is outstanding value for a barrel-fermented wine. A traditional blend of Viura with a little Malvasia that was hand-picked, destemmed, and then fermented in a mixture of French and American oak barrels with a period of bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) throughout. Very dry but well-rounded with tangy satsuma and lime fruitiness. £11.95

Eguren Ugarte Rose di Vin 2020

Situated on the outskirts of Laguardia, Eguren Ugarte is a family-owned and run business that was founded in 1870 but moved to its current location in 1989 under the stewardship of Vitorino Eguren Ugarte, who, sadly passed away earlier this year. Well into his eighties, he continued to drive the Bodega forward with the same enthusiasm as back when he first took over!

What sets the Rosé di Vin apart is its prolonged (one month) fermentation restricted to 12°C in French oak barriques with an additional three months ageing in the same barrels with weekly bâtonnage. The process imbues this wine with its soft texture, enhancing the delightful aromas of wild strawberries with cream and candied peach. £15.75

Puerta Vieja ‘Selección’ Rioja Tinto Crianza 2021

Also produced by Bodegas Riojanas, this is 100% Tempranillo sourced from their own vineyards in Cenicero and San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Once picked, the grapes are de-stemmed before undergoing a long maceration and temperature-controlled fermentation.

The resulting wine is then aged in new American oak barriques for 18 months. The finished product has a freshness and fragrance which belies the sojourn in wood with aromas of forest fruits and a hint of vanilla and liquorice. The palate meanwhile is supple, rounded and juicy with finely grained tannins and good persistence. £12.50

Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Tinto Reserva 2018

Founded in 1852, Murrieta is one of the oldest and most highly regarded estates in Rioja. This outstanding Reserva is the jumping-off point in Murrieta’s range of just four reds. It is always dominated by Tempranillo but includes small proportions of Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha.

This is a remarkable Reserva, with all grapes completely destemmed before fermentation in steel tanks followed by 21 months ageing in American oak barriques. There are complex aromas of red, blue and black fruits here – tempered with a seductive balsamic note, whilst the palate is broad, rich and textural with excellent length and finish. £28.50

 

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