Rhône rangers
WineTime Liverpool’s Jon Atkinson visits one of the world’s most ancient wine-growing regions for his latest picks
OF ALL OF THE CLASSIC WINE REGIONS in France, the Rhône Valley is the one visited most frequently by the WineTime household. This is primarily because we love the wines of course, but also because in my opinion, it offers better value than Bordeaux, Burgundy et al, particularly in the south.
The famous river starts its journey in the glaciers of the Swiss Alps, flowing through Lake Geneva and then over the French border before veering south all the way to the Mediterranean where its delta forms the Camargue region – a total distance of some 500 miles.
From a wine perspective, the Rhône can be split into north and south; the former is relatively small, covering only about 40 miles and accounting for less than 5% of wines from the Rhône. These are mostly red, exclusively from the Syrah grape and some white from either Viognier or Marsanne.
The south also produces mostly reds, but there are whites and some rosé. Whereas the reds of the north are essentially all about Syrah, those from the south, of which Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the standard bearer, are mostly a blend of different varieties. Grenache Noir will always be the main ‘player’, backed up by an amalgam of Mourvèdre, Syrah and numerous others. Taking the aforementioned Châteauneuf as an example, there are 13 permitted grape varieties, 18 if you include various ‘mutations’ such as Grenache Gris.
Topography is another major difference between north and south, with the landscape of the former more extreme and dramatic with the vineyards planted on steep slopes akin to those in the Douro in Portugal or those in Germany’s Mosel Valley.
The terrain in the south is much gentler and is famous for its ‘galets roulés’ – these are large, rounded stones that were shaped over millennia by both glacial and fluvial activity. These stones act as a type of radiator, retaining the warmth of the sun during the day and gradually releasing it during the cool of the night which benefits the Grenache vines in particular. It also protects the topsoil from the ravages of Le Mistral, which typically blows down the valley around 150 days per year!
Here’s my recommended wines from the Rhône…
Saint-Péray ‘La Belle de Mai’ Domaine Colombo 2021
Saint-Péray is a fairly obscure appellation where only white wine is produced – the majority being sparkling. It was given AOC status in 1936 based on the popularity of its sparkling wines, but its reputation has waned over the ensuing decades. Today at 108 hectares, it is the second smallest AOC of the northern Rhône.
This splendid example is from Jean-Luc Colombo, whose eponymous estate is best known for Cornas but covers the majority of appellations in both the north and south. Boasting a rich and appealing nose that is both fruity and floral, its taste is broad and textured, with stewed apple fruit, spicy notes and a tangy oakiness. £29
Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret ‘Tradition’ Domaine de Mourchon 2021
Walter McKinlay and his wife Ronnie realised a long-held dream in 1998 when they purchased some 40 acres of ancient, gnarled vines amongst the wild garrigue high up behind the village of Séguret in the Vaucluse region of France. Within two years, a new gravity-fed cuverie and barrel-ageing cellar were built. The first vintages had already demonstrated the considerable potential of the old vines on this high, free-draining soil.
The arrival of Sebastian Magnouac in 2000 helped to focus the accent onto a progressively more nuanced style, and since 2006 the estate has been producing truly excellent wines which are thrillingly expressive of their origins.
‘Tradition’ was the first wine produced here and these days it is a blend of predominantly Grenache, with Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. It is opaque purple black in appearance with a vivid ruby rim and medium viscosity. The nose is rich and savoury with a spicy, herbal character of cracked black pepper and tapenade. Full-bodied in the mouth with savoury dark fruit and firm tannins, it’s a firm favourite in the WineTime household. This is the business! £16.75
Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bastide Saint Dominique 2021
Éric Bonnet‘s estate was established by his parents Gérard and Marie-Claude in 1979 on the remains of a 16th Century chapel at Courthézon. This is their ‘house’ blend, of which some 20,000 bottles are made each year. It comprises 80% Grenache with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault from vines averaging 50 years of age. All grapes are completely de-stemmed before pressing and the resulting wine is aged in a mix of stainless steel and traditional cement Cuves before bottling.
A very gifted winemaker, Éric’s wines are all about finesse yet they manage to incorporate power seamlessly. Respected American wine writer and Rhône specialist Jeb Dunuck writes: “This beauty hits the palate with richness and a supple, seamless texture (…) it displays the purity, balance and class of the vintage.” £31.75
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- Saint-Péray ‘La Belle de Mai’ Domaine Colombo 2021
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- Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret ‘Tradition’ Domaine de Mourchon 2021
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- Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bastide Saint Dominique 2021
