Restaurant Review

Voyagers

38 Parr Street, L1 4JN

By Will Carr | Afternoon Tea | ££ |

When you tell non-locals you’re from Liverpool, you can probably guess the images that pop into their heads: red (or blue) football shirts, maritime museums, and musicians with bowl haircuts singing about how all you need is love. What they’re probably not picturing? Afternoon tea. Despite being enjoyed by people from all backgrounds, afternoon tea still carries an inescapable air of poshness for me – perhaps because it originated as a luxury of the upper classes, taken between 3pm and 5pm while the rest of us were out cleaning chimneys. Voyagers aims to put an end to this preconception once and for all with its own take on the classic British tradition – celebrating Liverpool’s rich heritage with a selection of scouse-inspired dishes.

We began with the Cheese and Red Onion Chutney Sandwich and were immediately impressed by the complementary flavours – the chutney’s sharpness balancing beautifully with the cheese’s creamy richness. The Scouse Sausage Roll, inspired by the local meat and potato stew, was nothing short of perfect. Rich and packed with a complex blend of flavours, it’s the final word on sausage rolls – everyone else can stop making them because the recipe has officially been perfected. Served with a tangy beetroot ketchup, I’d have been more than happy if this had been the entire meal. We found it delightful, but the Salmon and Cream Cheese Sandwich was remarkably strong and might be a little overwhelming for some.

However, for those who enjoy bold flavours, the salty, smoky salmon paired beautifully with the milder cream cheese, creating a well-balanced and satisfying taste. Served on a tiny seeded brioche bun, the Salt and Pepper Chicken Sandwich packed a spicy punch. As I took a bite – carefully avoiding inhaling it whole – I found it to be an appetising addition that disappeared far too quickly.

I didn’t even know we had our own local tart, but I’m glad we do and I’m even more glad it’s this one. A rather unassuming dessert, inside the handsome Liverpool Tart was a sweet, complex, lemony filling that was just the right side of bitter and comfortably the right side of delectable. If a new stadium wasn’t enough, there’s now something else for Blues to celebrate. The Everton Mint Cake – with its dark chocolate base, creamy filling, and peppermint-flavoured meringue topping – was a delight.

Reminiscent of an indulgent ice cream pie, its deliciousness might just be the one thing fans of both teams can finally agree on. The Dockers Cake, on the other hand, initially appeared to be a slightly dry fruit cake, but it was far humbler in appearance than in taste – bursting with flavour in every bite. My partner’s favourite was the Strawberry Fields Macaron, served in a shot glass
full of white chocolate ganache and dried strawberries. This was the biggest surprise of the evening – she usually detests white chocolate, but before I could even ask her opinion, she was eagerly devouring the decadent treat.

However for me, the standout dish was the Freshly Baked Scones, served with a tangy strawberry jam and smooth clotted cream. After a medley of bold flavours, it was refreshing to return to the basics with a traditional scone that smelled as if it had just come out of my grandmother’s oven. At £32.50 per person, the price is more than reasonable, and the level of creativity and passion on display is commendable. What’s more, the nation’s most down-to-earth city now has an afternoon tea it can enjoy without any hint of pretension.

voyagersliverpool.com

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