Restaurant Review

Aintree Racecourse

Ormskirk Road, L9 5AS

By Lawrence Saunders | Modern British | £££ |

Racedays at Aintree are a spectacle in their own right – the roar of the crowd, the thunder of hooves, the thrill of picking a winner. But stepping inside the Papillion restaurant offers a different kind of rush: one that comes with a napkin on your lap, three courses of high-class cuisine, and the occasional sidelong glance at the betting screen without having to elbow your way through the crowds.

Walking into the restaurant, there’s an immediate sense of calm – a rare luxury at any sporting event. You’re not just here to watch the horses; you’re here to experience the day properly, and the room quietly signals that this is about more than just champagne and seats with a view. The friendly Tote staff who frequent your table are a nice touch: you can have a few flutters without having to leave your seat, letting you feel part of the action while still enjoying the delights that come your way from the bar and kitchen.

Speaking of grub… the starter, spiced smoked red prawn with sweet pepper and tomato veil, black garlic purée, and focaccia toast, immediately sets itself apart from the usual tomato soup or generic first course fare. The flavours are unexpected, the presentation thoughtful, and it’s clear someone has thought about what diners might want beyond the safe, predictable option.

Moving onto the main, the brown sugar–brined striploin is tender, pink, and packed with flavour. Onions caramelised to perfection, dripping-fried potatoes that manage to feel indulgent without being greasy, and a pea and lovage purée that adds freshness to the plate – it’s a dish that could hold its own in any high-end Liverpool restaurant. Even the bone broth jus deserves a hat tip; it’s subtle but elevates the dish, tying everything together.

Dessert, however, is the revelation of the meal. The tawny port–poached pear with sweet port gel, stem ginger and toasted oat granola, and palm-sugar cinnamon cream cheese doesn’t just taste superb – it looks incredible too. The cream cheese is the star of the dish, and I’d have happily wolfed down a separate bowl of it if given the chance.

Service is a highlight throughout. Attentive without being overbearing, staff strike the perfect balance – you’re looked after, but not hovered over. Drinks arrive at the right time, plates are cleared promptly, and there’s a quiet rhythm that allows you to enjoy both the food and the racing without ever feeling rushed.

Ultimately, booking the VIP Restaurant Package isn’t about showing off. It’s about experiencing the races properly: savouring good food, having a comfortable base from which to watch the action, and not fighting your way through thousands in the Tatts to find the loo. It’s the antidote to the chaos – refined, thoughtful, and, above all, genuinely enjoyable. With a stacked Boxing Day card this year, featuring the Grade 1 Formby Novices’ Hurdle, I might just trade my mum’s bubble and squeak for the pleasures of Aintree hospitality (sorry, Mum!)

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