Marlborough on my mind…
With supplies of New Zealand’s sought–after Sauvignon Blanc disappearing fast, Jon Atkinson from Liverpool wine merchants WineTime offers some ideal alternatives
WineTime’s Jon Atkinson
THE WINE DRINKING PUBLIC has had something of a love affair with Sauvignon Blanc for a while now. The ‘classic’ examples hail from the central vineyards of the Loire Valley, namely Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
But Bordeaux also produces some excellent examples – albeit often featuring some Sémillon in the mix as well. More recently it is New Zealand and the Marlborough region in particular that has become synonymous with this variety.
Marlborough is at the north end of the South Island and is very much the country’s pre-eminent wine region. Although not the first to market, the legendary Cloudy Bay, whilst under the stewardship of David Hohnen, was largely responsible for putting Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the map.
These days Cloudy Bay is owned by LVMH, the luxury goods specialist (and priced accordingly!) but there are plenty of excellent alternatives, or at least there were!
The UK is currently drinking up what’s left of the 2020 vintage and awaiting the arrival of the 2021. Unfortunately, this vintage in Marlborough was problematic to say the least and although the quality of what was produced is, by all accounts, excellent, there is precious little available.
A heavy frost during budburst late in September was compounded by low temperatures during flowering in the second half of November, resulting in a significantly reduced crop.
At times like this, it’s easy to forget that wine is different to most other drinks; with beers and spirits it’s pretty much a question of turning on the tap to produce more but wine is more complicated. Taking our current topic, Marlborough is a legally delineated region and only grapes grown within that region are entitled to use the name.
The number of grapes grown will vary from one grower to another, but essentially there is a quantity versus quality trade off, and it is for each individual grower to decide what yield is acceptable. In the classic European wine regions, the maximum amount will be determined by the laws of the specific appellation in question, either way, there is only one harvest per year and when it’s gone…
So, what to opt for if/when the Marlborough Sauvignon runs out/prices itself out? Well, there are many viable alternatives and they don’t just include Sauvignon Blancs from other countries/ regions either. France is ‘home’ to this variety and there are plenty of good options from there, but Sauvignon is not particularly difficult to grow and there are excellent examples from a whole host of countries…
Afrikan Ridge Western Cape Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Afrikan Ridge is our own label range from South Africa – in my opinion the country best placed to fill the void created by the situation in Marlborough.
It is made for us by the excellent Bergsig Estate and the freshly landed ’21 vintage is showing brilliantly with lovely, fresh citrus and tropical fruit flavours balanced with vibrantly refreshing acidity.
La Forge Estate IGP Pays d’Oc Sauvignon Blanc 2020
This ‘New World’ styled example comes from the ever-dynamic Domaines Paul Mas in the Languedoc.
A small proportion of the wine was briefly aged in French oak Barriques, which brings a little extra to the party.
Expect aromas of gooseberry and asparagus with a herbaceous edge, a lovely weight and minerality plus a touch of smokiness.
Botas de Barro Rueda Verdejo 2019
Although Spain is often deemed to be red wine territory, that perception is changing thanks to wines like this. Rueda is in the North West and is planted over 95% to white varieties with the indigenous Verdejo to the fore.
This delicious white is made from 60-year-old bush vines and exudes pithy, crushed lime aromas with a refreshingly vibrant palate.
Colli Vicentini ‘Torre dei Vescovi’ Vicenza Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Italy might not be an immediately obvious source for Sauvignon, but it is surprisingly widely grown in the North East, with this example from Colli Vicentini co-operative in Vicenza.
Typically European, this is slightly more restrained than its southern hemisphere counterparts with more green fruit character and a lovely mineral edge.
Alma Cersius ‘Rolle’ IGP Coteaux de Béziers Vermentino 2020
This increasingly popular variety is an excellent alternative to Sauvignon, being just as vibrant and zesty but a little less fruity.
Historically, most French plantings were in Provence but this one was grown in the Languedoc.
Fresh, crisp, dry and zesty with aromas of lemon sherbet, greengage and grapefruit, finishing dry and fresh.
Hear no Evil Adelaide Plains Sauvignon Blanc 2019
A lot of Australia is arguably too warm to grow really good Sauvignon, but Adelaide has garnered a deserved reputation.
Hear no Evil is made from organically grown fruit, ticks the ‘low sulphite’ box and promises no ‘monkey business’ in the winery!
The addition of a small amount of Viognier really adds a touch of the exotic to the aromas.
TO CLICK & COLLECT ANY OF THESE RECOMMENDATIONS OR TO VIEW THE REST OF OUR RANGE VISIT WWW.WINETIMEWINES.CO.UK
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