Revisiting Rioja

WineTime’s Jon Atkinson celebrates Rioja Wine Month and selects four of his favourites from Spain’s most important wine-growing region.

 

THE FIRST WINERY THAT I EVER VISITED was Bodegas Federico Paternina in Rioja – I think I was about nine at the time! My father was calling in en route to our holiday destination to collect something for the late David Scatchard who was their UK agent at the time.

On being asked whether he would like to look around the Bodega, he explained that he had his wife and four children waiting in the car! Not a problem – everyone was welcome!

We had a full tour of the Bodega complete with tasting, with even us children encouraged to get involved. We were then treated to lunch in the cellars, all of which really captured the imagination of a nine-year-old boy and left a lasting impression.

Since then, I have been lucky enough to have returned to this, one of my favourite wine regions, on many occasions and have always found the welcome and hospitality to be as warm as on my first visit. Rioja is undoubtedly Spain’s most important wine-growing region, commercially speaking, and is increasingly important from a wine tourism perspective too.

The ‘local’ airport (Vitoria) has no direct flights from/to the UK but there are plenty to Bilbao which is only an hour and a half away by road, besides, who wouldn’t want to spend some time exploring the delights of Bilbao?

As a region, Rioja is split into three sub-zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental: Alta is the most westerly, has the largest vineyard area and is arguably the most prestigious – being home to the likes of Lopez de Heredia, Marqués de Murrieta, La Rioja Alta, Muga and many other venerable old Bodegas. The main city here is Logroño, with the old town a must-see for visitors, although many would argue that Haro, 40km to the north-west is the ‘spiritual’ capital of the region.

The Basque section of Rioja, Alavesa, is the smallest of the three zones and is to the north of the Ebro River which dissects the region. Alavesa reds have historically been Tempranillo – with a reputation for being more elegant than those produced south of the river! The delightful 12th Century town of Laguardia is the hub of wine production in the Alavesa and is well worth a detour.

Rioja Oriental is the easternmost zone and was known as the Rioja Baja until it was ‘rebranded’ in 2018. Historically, the vineyards here were regarded as inferior on account of a more Mediterranean climate and lower altitude, but useful for blending especially in lighter vintages for Alta and Alavesa. These days, it is forging a reputation in its own right with some wellmade, characterful wines being produced.

Rioja Santiago ‘Segundo Año’ Tinto 2018

 

Santiago is the oldest Bodega in Haro dating back to 1870. Although historically the wines here have been on the ‘traditional’ side, this oak-aged Tempranillo represents something of a departure in so far as it is aged for at least two years.

A delightfully accessible, medium-bodied wine with red berry aromas and gentle tannins.

£7.99

 

Eguren Ugarte Rioja Rosé di Vin 2020

Although regarded as red wine territory, Rioja produces some excellent whites and rosés as well.

This is a new listing from a 6th generation, family-owned Bodega just outside Laguardia.

It works extremely well however being softer and more creamy-textured than the norm whilst still retaining alluring wild strawberry aromas.

£12.95

 

Eguren Ugarte Rioja Blanco 2020

The majority of unoaked white Rioja is made from Viura, sometimes with a little Malvasia blended in, creating dry whites that I find a bit ‘meh’!

This one, however, is a blend of five different varieties and is an excellent example of a wine ‘greater than the sum of its parts’! Fresh, fruity and vibrant with a deliciously crisp, refreshing and fruit-driven dry palate.

£9.50

 

Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Tinto Reserva 2015

One of the most highly regarded wineries in Spain. Murrieta’s Ygay Estate just outside Logroño provides all of their grapes – nothing is bought in.

This is 80% Tempranillo and 12% Graciano with a little Mazuelo and Garnacha aged 18 months in mostly new American oak.

Elegant and poised but full-bodied with a rich palate balancing ripe fruit with a savoury edge.

£23.95

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