Moose Café on Dale Street has gone from cult hit to popular breakfast diner, with queues often stretching out of the door. So it is no surprise to see other venues springing up to take advantage of the clear demand for filling breakfasts at decent prices.
The latest to arrive is Barley and Beans in Hatton Garden, perfectly located to take advantage of the massive student population and the nearby business district. It offers comfortable, soft seating, a massive TV screen showing the latest sports and over half the menu given over to breakfast, including plenty of pancakes and eggs cooked in every way imaginable.
Which is why it may seem confusing that myself and my dining partner visited on a wet and windy Thursday evening, when the lights had been dimmed, candles had been placed on the tables and the bar was gearing up to serve a variety of cocktails. However, the team at Barley and Beans says the diner is all things to all people, from morning to night it promises to feed you and help you relax at all times of the day.
It’s the little things in Barley and Beans that impress; the large bowl of pistachios (£1) to nibble before the meal, the stylish salt and pepper shakers and the immaculately presented Amaretto sour cocktail (two for £7.50). A spot of eavesdropping on nearby tables confirmed we weren’t the only ones considering choosing an all-day breakfast option but eventually I plumped for the chickpea, mushroom and butternut squash burger (£7.25). It was almost impossibly tall with fresh salad ingredients and generous helpings of goats’ cheese and caramelised onions, all served with delicious chunky chips in a mini metal basket.
My date chose the Caesar salad (£7) and was confronted with a huge plate. There was plenty of succulent chicken and it was seasoned and presented well. Throughout the visit the attention to detail in the cooking stood out. Each ingredient was finely balanced it never felt stodgy or processed, which you can often find at these prices.
So impressive was the quality of the food at Barley and Beans I returned a week later to sample the vegetarian breakfast (£6.25) – one of the best in the city thanks to its use of wonderfully salty, chewy halloumi in place of the usual faux-meat options. My companion tried the grease-free full English (£6.75), which was cooked to perfection and once again offered excellent value.
While the cocktails clash slightly with the relaxed atmosphere and all-day breakfast focus of Barley and Beans, the diner is a hidden gem in the city’s breakfast (and lunch) offering. Staff are happy to stop and have a chat, the little extras such as chocolate-covered peanuts at each table, and quality of the cooking set it apart and ensure this is a venue I will return to time and time again.
