Restaurant Review

Frederiks

32 Hope Street, L1 9BX

By Will Carr | Small Plates | ££ |

Dave Critchley is the greatest chef you’ve probably never heard of. The two-time Great British Menu contestant has crafted culinary masterpieces for some of the North West’s top restaurants – and for four years, he had Liverpool Football Club dribbling off the pitch as much as on it. So when I heard that Dave would be working his epicurean magic on Frederiks’ spring menu, it was hard not to get excited.

If you’ve never been to Frederiks, then you need to address this immediately. Located just down the street from the Philharmonic, it effortlessly blurs the line between understated restaurant, sophisticated cocktail bar, and live music venue – all wrapped up in décor that wouldn’t look out of place in a tastefully retro ’70s lounge.

We were advised to order two to three small plates along with a couple of sides and snacks, so I began with the oven-baked focaccia (£5.95) – Italian for “gigantic slab of delicious herby bread”, served with basil oil.The pan-fried cod (£8.50) – swapped out for sea bream in my case – was superb. Presented on a bed of peas, its light, delicately sweet flavour paired beautifully with a mint and lemon butter coating.

Next on Frederiks’ culinary conveyor belt was the buttermilk chicken (£8.75). Seasoned with smoked paprika, the chicken – tenderised and subtly tangy from its marinade – was a marvel. The buffalo cauliflower wings (£6.95) were a surprise hit. Quite possibly our favourite course of the evening, this standout dish of deep-fried cauliflower served with garlic aioli delivered an intense flavour and satisfyingly crunchy texture, leaving us wondering why all vegetables aren’t deep-fried.

Taking inspiration from Italian and American cuisine, the mac and cheese (£7.25) arrived alongside the pork meatballs (£8.50). Infused with Colman’s mustard, parmesan, and black truffle, the mac and cheese was delightfully creamy while retaining a gentle, warming spice. The meatballs, served in a rich arrabbiata sauce, had an impressively authentic flavour – one that even an Italian grandmother might be proud of.

For dessert, I ordered the New York cheesecake (£7.75), topped with white chocolate and raspberries. It was simply exquisite – soft and creamy, with a slight sharpness from the berries that added an intriguing depth of flavour. My partner chose the bedino (£6.75), a traditional hazelnut infused chocolate pudding that looked and tasted like a rich chocolate mousse, finished with a scoop of ice cream.

“We want guests to feel like they’ve been fed,” was the simple brief given to Dave when he took on the challenge of designing a new spring menu for Frederiks. And overall, I’d say his efforts amount to nothing short of a triumph. While the tapas-style approach might not appeal to everyone, the intentionally small plates focus on quality over quantity – at times feeling like an incredibly unpretentious tasting menu. If you’re as gluttonous as I am, you’ll want more than the suggested two to three dishes.

The thumping music, meanwhile, is tailor-made for sharing food, sipping cocktails, and indulging in tipsy laughter. If you’re hoping for a quiet business lunch or a low-key romantic dinner, you may want to look elsewhere. But if you want to kick off your night properly before heading to the Philharmonic, you won’t find anywhere better.

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