Restaurant Review

The Watering Can

64 Greenbank Road, Greenbank Park, Liverpool, L18 1HQ

By Lawrence Saunders | ££ |

In February 2016, YM Liverpool reported that visitors to Greenbank Park could soon be enjoying the delights of a new café, after a planning application for ‘The Potting Shed’ was recommended for approval by Liverpool City Council.

Some three years and eight months later, my wife and I turned up at Sefton Park’s smaller sibling to find not ‘The Potting Shed’, but ‘The Watering Can’ – an establishment which has much more to it than the term ‘café’ might suggest.

The structure which houses the main restaurant wouldn’t look out of place on a episode of ‘Grand Designs’, and I’d defy anyone not to be charmed by its rustic, outside-comes-in decor.

Meanwhile on paper the evening food offering appeared a match for any trendy eatery, with a collection of small plates, big plates, sharing platters and pizzette.

The proof was indeed in the eating on this occasion. Every last bite of my starter, black pudding, potato cake, poached egg and mustard cream (£6.95), was a joy – thanks in no small part to its lip-smackingly good sauce.

Similarly, it was a big thumbs up from my wife for her smoked salmon, capers, red onion and brown bread (£7.95).

The space between courses gave the pair of us time to soak up The Watering Can’s pleasantly mellow ambience.

In contrast to the restaurant’s laid-back vibe, my main was practically a riot – delicious braised pork belly with celeriac dauphinoise, cider reduction apple and sage compote (£12.95).

Sitting in Greenbank Park enjoying a prime cut of pork belly is a sign of how far the Smithdown food scene has come in recent years and I think readers will agree.

Unfortunately, while I raved over my meal, my partner was rather disappointed with her choices — a wild mushroom, ham and ricotta pizzette (£5.95) with a side of halloumi fries (£5.95).

Although points were awarded for creativity and presentation, both plates lacked flavour, and in the case of the pizzette (mini pizza), the ricotta had been applied far too liberally.

It’s a new menu so some flat spots are to be expected, and certainly forgiven, especially given the quality of the preceding dishes.

Anyway, any lingering dissatisfaction my wife had with her main quickly faded upon delivery of a sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce (£5.95) to our table.

It’s always a good idea to ieaw your customers happy and this indulgent dessert did exactly that.

I seem to recall some local residents were initially concerned that The Watering Can, with its late night alcohol license, would bring the neighbourhood down.

Far from doing that, it is in fact a fantastic addition to L18 and it’s impossible not to be impressed with what has been created here.

Whilst there may be a little room for improvement food-wise, I hope to see The Watering Can blossom into a mainstay of the area for years to come.

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