Restaurant Review

Ma Boyle’s Alehouse & Eatery

7 Tower Gardens, Tower Building, The Strand, L3 1LG

By Tom Beattie  | Gastropub | ££ |

In direct view of St Nick’s church, which for hundreds of years was the first sign of home for the returning sailors of Liverpool on their approach from the Mersey, Ma Boyle’s was an apt setting for my own return to the city after months away.

With members of the public having been separated from friends and loved ones so often in the past year, some by hundreds of miles, there is a sense of reunion that creates a very unique buzz about venues currently and, in this sense, Ma Boyle’s stands as a perfect example of this.

There was a notable mix of generations present in the new alfresco dining area at this historic city centre pub located just off The Strand. Be it couples, groups of students or families, it was striking how Ma Boyle’s felt like a place where so many demographics felt it right to reconvene.

Of course, these are still far from normal times, given all the usual regulations one would expect are still in place here. That said, far from the experience feeling in any way sanitised, setting foot into the beautifully crafted new alfresco dining area in earshot of the peaceful St Nick’s Gardens, I truly did feel like I had never been away from the city.

Our waiter Adam showed us to our table, his service affable and friendly throughout, and within minutes of sitting down, both myself and my guest had remarked on the pleasant, almost giddy atmosphere of Ma Boyle’s. It felt like such a nice reminder of the buzz that so often can be found in the city on weekends.

Once we had settled in with a couple of drinks (a bottle of San Miguel, £4, and a large White Zinfandel, £5.90), we were quickly working up an appetite and decided to tackle a couple of starters from the main menu.

For our first course, we ordered crispy chicken strips (£7) and loaded nachos topped with beef brisket (£5.50). Not only were the dishes clearly freshly prepared, they also packed a real punch in terms of flavour and while still leaving room for more, they represented good value.

We soon set about deciding what next to have for our mains. After moments of quiet deliberation, I set upon a classic 8oz rump steak with homemade chips, tomatoes and salad with peppercorn sauce (£15), with my guest opting for the equally inviting rosemary pork belly with mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables (£13).

There is something very homely about the menu, one which counts a bowl of Scouse with crusty bread (£8.50) amongst its range of options. It is a pub that stays true to its roots and is proud of them it seems. The emphasis is very much on ensuring people have a place to go that is as inviting as it is familiar.

Upon the arrival of our second round of courses, one could not help but be struck by the ornate presentation of the dishes themselves. My own dish was perfectly cooked to my liking and it was clear that a great deal of care had gone into the meal itself.

The home-cooked, twice cooked chips were a real treat and complimented the steak itself, while adding a delightful rustic twist to proceedings. My guest was kind enough to allow me a taste of her dish and I can also confirm the succulence of the pork, along with the refreshing aspect of the steamed vegetables, again displayed the attention to detail of the venue’s kitchen staff.

To finish, it felt only right to top things off with a classic sticky toffee pudding (£4.50). Perfectly sweet, clearly homemade and topped with ice cream, it was an admittedly heavenly way to end a glorious afternoon spent in view of the splendid old St Nick’s!

Over the past twelve months, Ma Boyle’s will have undoubtedly experienced one of the most peculiar years in its long existence. Nevertheless, with over £15,000 having been invested into the pub’s new outdoor dining area, it is clear that owner Ian Hoskins is intent on ensuring that the Ma Boyle’s stays at the forefront of the city’s pub offering.

In showing a unique mix of the traditional with an ability to adapt to landmark change, the venue may be set to enter yet another fruitful era in its storied history.

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