Restaurant Review

Queens

8-10 Queen Avenue, Liverpool, L2 4TX

By Dan Haygarth | ££ |

Nestled in the arcade of Queen Avenue, just off Castle Street, Queens – an aptly named wine bar and bistro – offers a touch of Parisian charm in Liverpool city centre.

With a relaxed atmosphere, French-inspired décor, and friendly staff, Queens feels perfectly matched to its charmingly unconventional surroundings. A warm welcome greets my arrival for lunch with a friend.

An impressive selection of beers fills the time before the starters arrive. Together with a wide range of wines – all supplied by neighbours R&H Fine Wines – Queens’ wealth of choice makes it an agreeable location for a few drinks.

Yet, as the partly exposed kitchen’s audible sizzles play against a soulful soundtrack, your mind will turn quickly to the food menu.

Before long, our starters are delivered. The seared pigeon breast, celeriac puree, hispi cabbage and blackberries (£7) is a wonderful beginning to the meal. Well rested, but served beautifully pink, the pigeon’s rich flavour is balanced by a creamy, smooth puree, while the sharpness of the berries brings the dish together as a diverse but perfectly merged collection of flavours.

Following the starters, we are offered wine pairings for our next two courses. A welcome touch – confirming that we are in safe hands.

In my book, a bistro is only as good as its steak. Cooked medium rare, the Cumbrian rump of beef with confit tomato, mushroom, fries, and green peppercorn sauce (£19) does not let Queens down. Paired wonderfully with a 2018 La Tribuna (£5/£22) – a full-bodied and intense Monastrell – the steak is juicy, tender and a sublime colour.

The peppercorn sauce provides the meat with a subtle glaze and excellent seasoning, as the fries pass the one true test – crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle. You would struggle to find a better steak-frites in Liverpool.

The pan roasted chicken, savoy cabbage and pancetta, fondant potato and jus (£15) is another expertly delivered dish. The chicken is moist, with a crisp skin, while the bacon adds a welcome saltiness, the cabbage helpfully catching the juices and flavours of the meat.

A vibrant and distinctive 2018 Arndorfer Gruner Veltliner (£7/£31) works wonderfully with the chicken, its crisp finish and fruity notes prove to be a perfect match. After the excellent main courses, a pause is required. As we finish the wine and wax lyrical about the standard of food, the restaurant is beginning to fill up.

The cheese board (£8) rounds off my lavish meal. Served with tomato chutney, the punchy yet creamy Harrogate Blue was the standout from an excellent selection. Complemented by a smooth Niepoort Ruby Dum port, it was a perfect end to a deluxe dining experience.

For the more sweet-toothed, the lemon tart, with lemon Chantilly and raspberries (£6.50) is delivered to perfection. The Chantilly is beautifully light, while a delectable 2018 Clos du Gravillas Muscat is a nicely sweet partner.

If you’re willing to part with a decent sum of money, Queens provides expertly cooked but uncomplicated bistro dishes, paired with a wonderful selection of drinks in a stylish, relaxed and informal setting – sumptuous food, served by friendly, knowledgeable staff.

Liverpool’s business district is blessed with many restaurants, but one of its best can be found tucked away on Queen Avenue, a hidden gem.

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