Divided by the Andes
Jon Atkinson shares his favourites from South America’s two wine-producing powerhouses
I HAVE BEEN LUCKY ENOUGH to have visited both Chile and Argentina on a couple of occasions when on wine trips – the first time I went, we flew with Varig which tells you how long ago that was! Both countries have evolved significantly in their wine production since then with Argentina having now caught up with Chile on the international stage.
There is an almost inevitable tendency to assume that both countries would enjoy compatible climates, geology, etc, but they are surprisingly different. Chile has arguably the most consistent climate in the wine-growing world, whilst Argentina, by comparison, can and often does vary quite dramatically from one year to the next. Perhaps the most obvious difference in viticulture is irrigation; both countries do it, but it is much more straightforward (and less necessary) in Chile.
The region of Mendoza accounts for about 70% of Argentina’s wine output, and whilst not strictly speaking a desert, is incredibly dry with less than 200mm of precipitation per year. This makes water a very valuable commodity on the east of the Andes which resulted in a very elaborate system of irrigation channels diverting water from the Rio Mendoza, which is itself fed by meltwater from the Andes. Over the years these channels have evolved and now feature a series of sluice gates which are used to ration the amount of water going to each vineyard. Once a vineyard has received its allocation, the farmer will periodically employ a technique similar to flood irrigation using channels within the vineyard around the base of the vines.
Given the paucity of water availability, several more high-profile wineries have been introducing drip irrigation, which is significantly more efficient, but complex and costly. Given the perilous state of the Argentine economy, uptake has been quite limited so far. By contrast, the Chilean economy is one of, if not the strongest in South America but the need to invest in such technology is much lower, with the vineyards almost taking care of themselves!
Altitudes Valle Central Viognier Gran Reserva 2023
The Chardonnay vines that produce this crisp and elegant wine are between 30 and 50 years old. Being fairly mature, they give a lovely quality of concentrated fruit which is harvested in the cool of night to help retain the freshness and delicacy of the aroma. Fermentation is temperature-controlled and the wine spends three months on the lees for added complexity. A pure, elegantly dry, precise palate with plenty of lean pineapple and Granny Smith fruit with a subtle creaminess. Crisp with plenty of vitality and a full, well-rounded mouthfeel finishing long and mineral. £8.95
Viña Las Perdices Agrelo Albariño Reserva 2021
Viña Las Perdices (the partridges) story started with Juan Carlos Muñoz who emigrated from Andalucía, Spain in the early 1950’s to grow grapes to sell on to wine producers. It was his two sons Juan and Nicolás who in 2004 decided to take the next step making wines for themselves and building their own winery in the Agrelo district within Mendoza, Argentina’s pre-eminent region.
Globally, Albariño has rapidly established itself as one of the more popular white varieties – delicious as an aperitif but really coming into its own when paired with fish or seafood. This excellent example is crisp and fresh, yet rich with a delicate peach character typical of the variety with a long, mineral-imbued finish. £16.50
Valle Secreto ‘Key’ Rapel Valley Carmenère Grand Reserve 2021
Valle Secreto is a boutique Estate of some 38ha in the upper reaches of the Cachapoal Valley. It was established as recently as 2007; a joint venture between two wine-loving families. As you would expect with such a relatively small operation, pretty much everything that happens in the vineyard is done by hand, and although not certified as organic, they very much work to those principles. ‘Key’ is a new range of single-varietal reds made from fruit brought in from the Rapel Valley.
The Carmenère is medium deep, ruby red with a garnet rim and a richly fruity nose. The palate is medium – full-bodied, supple and juicy with slightly spicy red fruit flavours and a long, slightly mineral finish. £11.50
Viña Las Perdices ‘Exploración’ La Consulta Malbec 2018
From relatively humble beginnings, this Estate now stands at 93ha planted to 17 different grape varieties, although Malbec, inevitably, accounts for the largest surface area. Very much the signature Argentine variety, it’s easy to forget that Malbec actually originated in France.
The Exploración range looks to showcase individual sub-regions with varieties to which they are suited, with La Consulta a highly regarded sub-zone of the Uco Valley. This is an expressive and elegant wine with red and dark fruit aromas embellished by subtle oaky notes and a hint of graphite in the background. It is supple and juicy in the mouth with blackberry and red cherry flavours backed by fairly gentle tannins. £18.95
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- Altitudes Valle Central Viognier Gran Reserva 2023
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- Valle Secreto ‘Key’ Rapel Valley Carmenère Grand Reserve 2021
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- Viña Las Perdices ‘Exploración’ La Consulta Malbec 2018
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- Viña Las Perdices Agrelo Albariño Reserva 2021
