Viva Veneto!

Jon Atkinson travels to Italy’s most prolific wine region for his latest selections

ONE OF ITALY’S 20 ADMINISTRATIVE REGIONS, Veneto makes up a fair chunk of the north-east of the country – stretching from its capital Venice in the east across to Verona in the west.

Although wine is produced throughout Veneto, historically, it was the province of Verona which saw the most wine growing activity – home to established favourites such as Soave and Valpolicella. More recently it’s Prosecco, which can be grown in nine provinces across the regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, which has come to the fore, with most being centred in the province of Treviso. Indeed, Verona and Treviso account for about three quarters of the total wine output of the region.

From a winemaking perspective, Veneto generates more wine than any other region with close to 80 million hectares of vineyards! A lot of these are owned by farmers who just concentrate on growing grapes for a living, being able to sell their wares through the many cooperatives which are found throughout the region.

The countryside of Veneto is quite spectacular with the added attractions of Lake Garda and towns such as Vicenza, Verona and particularly Venice making it a particularly popular tourist destination. Oenotourism has undoubtedly benefited from this and the established ease of access to the region from around Europe.

Soave Classico ‘Monopolio’ Cantina di Gambellara 2022

Soave has sadly become synonymous with pale, watery wines with just a subtle hint of lemony fruit which can be had for relatively little coin from many supermarkets – it has that in common with Pinot Grigio! There are three permitted grape varieties in Soave; firstly, and most importantly, Garganega, as well as Trebbiano di Soave and, somewhat randomly, Chardonnay!

It is on the Volcanic slopes of the Classico zone that Garganega really comes into its own. This lovely and relatively modestly priced example is pale straw in colour with silver-green tints and medium viscosity. A fresh, floral nose with hints of almond, celery and fennel. A crisp, dry palate with refreshing acidity and a nice mineral edge. Medium-light bodied with a pithy, chalky texture. £10.25

Bardolino Chiaretto Cantina del Garda 2023

Bardolino is found on the eastern shore of Lake Garda, literally a five-minute drive south from the small town of Garda itself. To all intents and purposes, the red wines for which the region is best known are lighter versions of the neighbouring Valpolicella. However, Bardolino has another string to its bow – Chiaretto, its very own Rosé, which Valpolicella is not ‘allowed’.

For me, this is one of the most authentic Italian Rosatos and definitely deserves to be appreciated by a wider audience! This lovely example from our friends at the Cantina del Garda cooperative is delightfully crisp, fresh and savoury dry Rosato made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grown on the eastern shores of Lake Garda. £8.75

Carlo V ‘Il Rosso dell’Imperatore’ IGT Veneto Rosso 2018

This is a really ‘serious’ Bordeaux-style blend and is the flagship red from Colli Vicentini – a brilliant Co-operative at Montecchio Maggiore that we have dealt with for many years. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grown in the Veneto is not unusual in itself as these two varieties are widely grown throughout the region. That having been said, ordinarily, these wines are light, fresh and juicy whereas Carlo V has a surprising heft and richness giving it a New World feel.

Strict selection of grapes and 12 months oak ageing has given a serious red that is an opaque ruby red in colour. Rich in ripe blackberry and Kirsch aromas on the nose with hints of new leather and prune. Quite full bodied with plenty of dark fruit character nicely framed with a gentle oakiness. £10.75

Amarone della Valpolicella ‘Coste Bianche’ Tenute Fiorebelli 2017

An outstanding example of this much sought-after wine, in a modern style from a small, 3ha vineyard at Negrar. Unusually, this is made from 100% Corvina which was hand-picked with very low yield. Once picked, the extra ripe berries are left to dry out in the Fruttaio (a purpose built, very well aerated drying loft) where they can lose up to 50% of their water content.

These air-dried grapes then undergo a long maceration and fermentation prior to ageing for 20 months in a mixture of French and American oak barriques. The wine has a lovely deep garnet colour. It exudes aromas and flavours of sour black cherries, dark chocolate, coffee, and raisins. That it is full-bodied is a given, but despite its power, the palate is soft, supple and well-rounded; spicy and elegant, with an extremely long finish. £34.75

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