Since opening last September, Smithdown Road resident Evil Eye Beer and Burrito Shack has been making a name for itself. Aside from tasty Mexican street food, the team behind the bar is known for running ‘Food Bank Holidays’, encouraging visitors to donate £5 worth of food to the Central Liverpool Foodbank in exchange for £1 burritos. The community spirit is enough to get you interested, whilst the prospect of excellent burritos and beer will keep you coming back for more.
When we entered Evil Eye on a Friday night, we were greeted to the sounds of vintage Smiths records and the smell of paprika and chilli in the air. The place is decorated with fairy lights and old Día de los Muertos and sugar skulls posters, with candles on every table, giving it a warm and welcoming atmosphere as shelter from the rain that was hurtling down outside.
Surveying the drinks menu, Evil Eye is true to its beer shack credentials, with many Mexican and American beers on offer. We decided to try the homemade desperados (£3.75) alongside nachos with salsa and guacamole (£4). The homemade desperados were excellent; the beer was thirst-quenching while additions of lime and tequila were sweet with a sharp kick. The guacamole was sufficiently chunky and covered a generous portion of crispy nachos.
Our waiter explained the process of ‘building’ our burritos as neither of us had been before. Evil Eye allows you to have total control over your meal, with gluten-free and vegan options available. Diners pick a main, such as chipotle chicken or Bourbon BBQ halloumi; rice, vegetables, salsa, and beans to build their burrito, with different fillings coming with a handy spice guide. I chose the Bourbon BBQ pulled pork burrito, with the proper Mexican rice, spicy veg, ‘Pico de Gallo’ salsa, with refried beans and guacamole (£5.50), whilst my partner tried the Adobo steak burrito, with limey cilantro rice, the addition of garlic and herb mushrooms, and green pepper and jalapeno yoghurt dressing, along with salsa, beans and guacamole (£6).
When our burritos arrived they were almost bursting at the seams, though safely wrapped up in tin foil so there was no risk of an explosion. The bourbon glazed pulled pork had moments of sweet honey that nicely contrasted with the heat from the spices. The garlic and herb mushrooms were full of flavour, and the garlic mixed well with the hot steak and cool lime and coriander rice. The tasty beans, chunky guacamole and salsa all added to the classic burrito experience.
Evil Eye’s burritos were quite simply the tastiest burritos we had ever had, and at amazing value too. I had been eyeing up the churros with cinnamon sugar and chocolate dipping sauce earlier (£3.50), but we were too full from the burritos to even think about more food. Instead, we sat back and enjoyed the atmosphere and made plans for the next time we are going to visit.
