Restaurant Review

Maray Dockside

Unit 4, Britannia Pavillion, Albert Dock, L3 4AD

By Will Carr | Small plates | ££ |

Sometimes in life, things just sneak up on you. In our city, I’ve found it’s best to keep both eyes peeled or a restaurant that you’ve never heard of will sprout not just one but two locations on either side of town and before you know it you’re trapped! Enter Maray, founded in 2014 and inspired by the cultural melting pot of Marais, Paris, it boasts a collection of fine wines and Middle Eastern flavours.

As someone who’s never experienced a crumb of Middle Eastern cuisine, it seemed the perfect opportunity to visit Maray’s Albert Dock site when I heard its new spring/ summer menu had just been launched.

Sitting on the south side of the Albert Dock, Maray is surprisingly compact but the huge glass frontage and wonderful view allow it to breathe and never feel claustrophobic. The atmosphere feels relaxed and casual but you can tell this place is run with a tight efficiency. The excellent manager, Jenny, took our order before gliding effortlessly to another table with a warm smile and a box of ingredients to ensure that no one had any dietary issues.

The staff recommended two to three plates per person and who were we to argue? The Cauliflower Bhajis (£6) arrived first and after a satisfying crunch, released a flavour as wonderful as it was complex. On a bed of red pepper dip, the suggestion of coconut was subtle and perfectly balanced, the chilis less so. As a spice wimp, it did feel like having a delicious sparkler in my mouth. Luckily I’d ordered the Smacked Cucumber (£6.75). The cool slices were refreshing and the labneh cream cheese, infused with garlic, came to my rescue.

The Braised Carrots (£9) with black garlic tahini and sour grapes were pleasant and not overpowering. I’d recommend the Lamb Skewer (£13) but be warned it’s a dish that demands attention. Being slightly tough, the skewer won’t give up easily, however, the flavour is worth the battle, even my partner, who doesn’t like lamb, had to concede to its deliciousness.

This is when we noticed Maray’s marvellous ability to convert the culinary obstinate. I’ve never liked halloumi, I don’t like the flavour or the texture, and usually can’t get it off my plate quickly enough. However, Maray’s Halloumi (£9) helped me see the light. Served on a Zaalouk, a Moroccan eggplant and tomato salad, it was superb.

When ordering the Baklava Cheesecake (£7.5), don’t say balaclava cheesecake or you’ll get a funny look from your server and your partner will disown you (not that I did that). My first cheesecake experience was nearly perfect. The presentation was flawless, pistachio and roses were laid on a slice of cream anglaise cheesecake. It belonged at a wedding reception. The Medjool date is known as ‘the fruit of kings’ and after the Medjool Date Bread and Butter Pudding (£7.5) arrived, I realised exactly why. The spoonful that my partner reluctantly allowed me to steal was soft, creamy, buttery and dipped in the accompanying date and caramel sauce with a little ice cream.

If you’ve not had tapas before you might assume it could be slightly irritating, each dish being served when it’s ready, but as we’d finished one plate and lost ourselves talking about the decor, the next plate’s arrival became a pleasant surprise. With the intimate environment and the sharing of food, Maray is the perfect choice for a first date but make sure you both order the same dessert or it could be your last.

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